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Southern Provisions: The Creation and Revival of a Cuisine cookbook by David S Shields

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Books : Cooking : English
 

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Southern food is America?s quintessential cuisine. From creamy grits
to simmering pots of beans and greens, we think we know how these classic foods should taste. Yet the southern food we
eat today tastes almost nothing like the dishes our ancestors enjoyed because the varied crops and livestock that
originally defined this cuisine have largely disappeared. Now, a growing movement of chefs and farmers is seeking to
change that by recovering the rich flavor and diversity of southern food. At the center of that movement is historian
David Shields, who has spent over a decade researching early American agricultural and cooking practices.  In Southern
Provisions, he reveals how the true ingredients of southern cooking have been all but forgotten and how the lessons of
its current restoration and recultivation can be applied to other regional foodways.

Shields?s turf is the
southern Lowcountry, from the peanut patches of Wilmington, North Carolina to the sugar cane fields of the Georgia Sea
Islands and the citrus groves of Amelia Island, Florida, and he takes us on an excursion to this region in order to
offer a vivid history of southern foodways, drawing connections among plants, farms, growers, seed brokers, vendors,
cooks, and consumers. Shields begins by looking at how professional chefs during the nineteenth century set standards of
taste that elevated southern cooking to the level of cuisine. He then turns to the role of food markets in creating
demand for ingredients and enabling conversation between producers and preparers. Next, his focus shifts to the field,
showing how the key ingredients?rice, sugarcane, sorghum, benne, cottonseed, peanuts, and citrus?emerged and went on to
play a significant role in commerce and consumption. Shields concludes with a look at the challenges of reclaiming both
farming and cooking traditions.

From Carolina gold rice to white flint corn, the ingredients of authentic
southern cooking are returning to fields and dinner plates, and with Shields as our guide, we can satisfy our hunger
both for the most flavorful regional dishes and their history.


Editorial Reviews
Review
?People are always asking me what the most important book written  about southern food is. You are holding it in your
hands.?
(Sean Brock, executive chef, Husk)

?Shields is an unsurpassed custodian of Southern culinary
history. In Southern Provisions, he provides a richly detailed account of the evolution of Southern food culture, from
field to marketplace to home kitchen. It?s at once enlightening and inspiring?a powerful call to remember and
rehabilitate our nation?s most essential foodways.?
(Dan Barber, co-owner and executive chef of Blue Hill and Blue
Hill at Stone Barns)

?Shields makes it clear that he is not interested in the mythology of Southern food, but
purely in the facts and what we can discern from them. This emphasis on the verifiable underscores the imperative to
understand and acknowledge the real who and what of the region's complicated edible past. It likewise fuels the urgency
to identify and preserve for the future that which is valuable and irreplaceable. Southern Provisions is an essential
volume for anyone interested in the state of American food.?
(Ronni Lundy, author of Shuck Beans, Stack Cakes, and
Honest Fried Chicken)

?In Southern Provisions, Shields skillfully draws connections between agricultural
history and the history of food in the Lowcountry. In the process, he unearths truths about the south, its flora, fauna,
and peoples. If you want to apprehend the tangled roots of American regional cuisine, this is a good place to start.?
(John T Edge, coeditor of The Larder: Food Studies Methods from the American South)
About the Author
David
S. Shields is the Carolina Distinguished Professor and the McClintock Professor of Southern Letters at the University of
South Carolina and chairman of the Carolina Gold Rice Foundation. His other books include Still: American Silent Motion
Picture Photography, also published by the University of Chicago Press.                                                             

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